Gold bursts through clouds over the northern Green Mountains. Spotlit patches of forest amplify the autumnal palette rusting past its zenith. The trees are turning into their own distinct sunsets. From a country cottage patio, we watch the prismatic panorama dissolve into dense fog.

With the Vermont views lost under milky grey and blue, what’s to do but find a higher vantage point? Entering the Jay Peak trailhead outside of Montgomery town center, we begin our ascent with a picnic in our backpack. The trail gets steeper, more demanding. Soft soil and tall trees transition into rock scrambles and evergreens stunted by years of wind and snow exposure. The air is murky, creating a celestial space covered in fine mist that blurs vision and dampens sound. We can only hear ourselves talk, breathe, think.

At the summit, French is spoken as often as English, transporting us to the Alps…until we remember how close we are to Quebec. From a cloudy perch, we carve apples and smoked cheddar, spread dijon over crusty bread, and sip wine from Sky Haus Deli plastic cups. A celebration before the descent.

Back in the valley and riding along the Canadian border, we stop in Newport at the southern basin of Lake Memphremagog. A few blocks from the waterfront, the Northeast Kingdom Tasting Center sells the agrarian bounty of the region: charcuterie, cheeses, maple products, produce. It’s also home to Eden Ciders, where tasting flights run through a portfolio that spans crisp sparkling ciders—made using the champagne method—to unique iced styles.

The amber liquor of the latter is distilled from Northern Spy apples. Dating back to early 19th-century America, this varietal is prized for its balance, cycling between sweet, tart, and funky. Eden producers channel a clear profile of the heirloom, whose honeyed bouquet is layered with the musk of an overripe fruit. Caramel coats your tongue until it’s cleansed by an acidic bite and dusty finish. The bittersweet fall harvest preserved in a bottle, if only for the moment.

10/26/2019